As spring unfolds over Hanoi, warmth takes on a gentler meaning – not the refuge from cold, but the quiet renewal of life and memory. At Chapter Dining, we believe true comfort lies in connection: the glow of a hearth, the delicate aroma of fermentation, and ingredients shaped patiently by time. In our HEARTH (Bếp Lửa) Spring menu, we turn to the Vietnamese Northwest for inspiration, reimagining humble fermented rice sauce – mẻ – as a refined expression of heritage, craft, and contemporary gastronomy.
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A Hearth That Warms the Heart
When the harvest season comes to an end, a quiet calm settles over the Vietnamese Northwest. This is the feeling we always return to. Picture a traditional stilt house, the cold mountain air outside, and a glowing hearth at the center of the room. Firewood crackles softly, a comforting sour aroma drifts from the kitchen, and conversations flow easily – stories, laughter, and gentle teasing filling the space.
At Chapter Dining Hanoi, this sense of warmth is exactly what we wanted to bring to life in our HEARTH (Bếp Lửa) Winter–Spring menu. Inspired by the culture and culinary devotion of the Northwest Highlands, we chose to spotlight an ingredient that feels deeply familiar yet rarely celebrated on a fine-dining table: fermented rice sauce, or mẻ.
For us, mẻ becomes a bridge – connecting heritage, memory, and modern gastronomy in a way that feels both honest and exciting.
2. Mẻ: A Living Memory from the Vietnamese Kitchen
In traditional Vietnamese households, mẻ is born from simplicity and resourcefulness. Leftover cooked rice is fermented naturally, transforming over time into a milky, tangy paste with a bold, unmistakable aroma.
For generations, mẻ has flavored everyday family meals, quietly symbolizing care, warmth, and seasonal abundance. At Chapter, we see it as much more than a souring agent. To us, mẻ is a living ingredient – one that breathes, evolves, and carries time within it.
This philosophy mirrors how we approach fermentation across our kitchen. Just like our sourdough starter, nurtured continuously since December 2019, our mẻ is treated with patience and respect. It represents continuity – an unbroken line connecting past kitchens to today’s dining room.
3. A Signature Dish: Seasonal Fish & Fermented Rice Sauce
One of the clearest expressions of mẻ’s potential appears in a standout dish from the HEARTH menu – “Seasonal Fish. Fermented Rice. Umami Beurre Blanc”.
We begin with the best seasonal fish available. After a light brine, the fillet is cured using the Japanese kombujime technique, allowing kelp to gently draw out moisture while layering in natural umami. In keeping with our zero-waste mindset, the trimmings and heart of the fish are transformed into a light, airy mousse – carefully sandwiched between two pristine cuts of cured fish.
But the heart of the dish is the sauce.
We reimagined the classic French beurre blanc by replacing white wine or vinegar with Vietnamese mẻ and a deeply flavorful fish bone broth. The result is a sauce that feels both familiar and new – bright yet rounded, tangy yet deeply savory – lifting the fish while letting its purity shine.
4. Why This Matters to Us
When you taste this mẻ-infused beurre blanc, the experience goes far beyond acidity. Butter softens the sharp edges, creating a texture that is creamy, slightly funky, and velvety on the palate.
More importantly, it carries emotion. The warmth of the sauce reflects the spirit of the hearth itself – comforting, nostalgic, and quietly powerful. It reminds us of cold highland evenings, where a shared meal around the fire brought everyone closer.
By elevating mẻ in this way, we’re not simply reworking a traditional ingredient. We’re continuing our journey toward a New Vietnamese Cuisine – one that honors local flavors and proves they can stand confidently alongside the world’s most refined culinary techniques.
5. Fermentation as a Craft at Chapter
In a professional kitchen, maintaining a mẻ starter becomes both science and art. Temperature, feeding schedules, and bacterial balance must be carefully monitored to ensure elegance rather than aggression in flavor.
This attention to fermentation flows throughout the HEARTH menu. You’ll find the vibrant heat of Chí Chương alongside grilled Flathead Lobster, and the aromatic depth of Chẩm Chéo paired with seared Wagyu beef. Together, these elements form a cohesive story – one rooted in the rugged, soulful culture of Vietnam’s Northwest.
6. An Invitation to the Hearth
Through the vision of Quang Dũng and our team, mẻ has become more than a humble kitchen staple. It’s now an ingredient rich with complexity, emotion, and storytelling.
With the HEARTH menu, we invite you to experience a different kind of luxury – one shaped by time, memory, and a deep connection to the land.
Join us at Chapter, take a seat by the metaphorical fire, and let us share a warmth that goes beyond taste – a warmth that lingers, long after the last bite.
